Itineraries for Beppu Jigoku Meguri (別府地獄めぐり), Oita, Japan
An onsen trip to Kyushu’s Oita Prefecture isn’t complete without visiting the 7 Hells of Beppu, or jigoku. Here’s how you can see them all, and where to linger, in just one day.
Plus, if your time is really tight and you can only visit one hell, we know exactly which one to go to.
More about the Hells of Beppu: Check out our family travel video
What are the Hells of Beppu?
On Japan’s southern main island of Kyushu, Oita Prefecture is home to Beppu, one of the most iconic and renowned destinations for onsen bathing in all of Japan. (Check out this video for more on our family’s onsen visit in Beppu, and other things to do.)
Given the area’s intense underground volcanic activity, Beppu is also home to natural pools that are over boiling point. While far too hot to touch, they make a fun and dramatic place to visit, due to the vivid colors they have thanks to the minerals in the water and land.
Where are the 7 Hells of Beppu?
The hells are in two main areas, in the Kannawa and Kamegawa regions. Five hells are located in the hills north of Beppu City itself. Two other hells are located farther north from those.
How do you get to the Hells of Beppu?
Located on the eastern side of Japan’s southern main island of Kyushu, Beppu is on the main train lines that connect it to Oita and Fukuoka. From Oita Station, limited express trains can take you to Beppu Station in about 10 minutes.
From Beppu Station, it’s easiest to snag a local bus from right outside the station. Also give your hands a dip in the “hand onsen” just outside Beppu Station.
Guide to visiting the Hells of Beppu
We’re going to share our family of four’s experience visiting the Hells of Beppu, talk about how to get from hell to hell, and how to get the most out of your time with each jigoku. Plus, we’ll share options for how to structure your visit to the hells—including which one to see if you can only see just one.
The hells in a nuts(hell): How many hells are in Beppu?
Volcanic activity, subterranean water flows, and distinctive mineral combinations have formed the character and color of each of the seven jigoku, which are:
- Reddish-brown colored Chinoike Jigoku, or Blood Pond Hell
- The geyser Tatsumaki Jigoku, or Tornado Hell
- Blue-colored Umi Jigoku or Sea Hell
- Gray mud Oniishibozu Jigoku, said to resemble a monk’s bald head
- Shiraike Jigoku, or White Pond Hell, which neighbors an aquarium
- Croc breeding habitat Oniyama Jigoku, or Crocodile Hell
- Color-changing Kamado Jigoku, or Furnace Hell / Cooking Hell
How to get around from hell to hell
The hells are a little outside of the town of Beppu itself, and easily accessible via car or local bus.
Five of the seven jigoku are in one hillside area. It’ll be hard to miss due to all the billowing steam clouds. Blood Pond Hell, or Chinoike Jigoku, is off in its own area of hillside, about 10 minutes away. Nearby is the covered-for-your-safety geyser Tatsumaki Jigoku.
If you have a car, you can easily travel between these popular attractions, and there’s ample parking.
We used the local bus system. The bus accepts cash fares, or you can use your physical or digital I.C. Card. The kids used their physical Pasmo cards, and we parents used the digital Suica cards on our phones.
Bus fares and routes are always subject to change. Check bus signage at Beppu Station, and you can also pull up routes in your phone’s mapping app.
Admission
There’s an admission fee to visit the jigoku. If you only want to see a hell or two, you can buy individual tickets.
If you want to see all seven, there’s a discount package. Admission also includes things like the aquarium at Shiraike Jigoku White Pond Hell, plus attractions and activities on the winding path around Kamado Jigoku Furnace Hell.
For current admission rates, check here.
At each Hell’s entry gate, there’s a box where you can toss your ticket for that hell.
Even though we skipped one hell completely, it was still worthwhile to get the all-hells discount package. The savings worked out financially. Plus, when we arrived at each jigoku we skipped the line and went straight to hell.
Is visiting the Hells of Beppu worth it?
With vivid colors, distinctive features, and attractions from food tasting to crocodile viewing, visiting the Hells of Beppu is very much worth it during your time in Beppu and Oita.
The Hells are most easily visited during a day trip that’s focused on the area. Or, if you’re staying in the area, you could split them up over two days, if you wanted to really linger at some hells, or check out more of the surrounding areas near each hell.
Hells of Beppu suggested itineraries
How to visit 7 hells (plus a secret bonus jigoku) in 1 day
Since all 7 hells are in one fairly compact area, and five are within about a kilometer, or half a mile of each other, it’s pretty easy and convenient to visit all 7 hells in one day. There’s even a special, bonus, not-very-widely-publicized hell you can visit, and we’ll get to that shortly.
To give some context from our family’s own experience, we checked out of our ryokan, or traditional inn, in Beppu late in the morning. From Beppu Station, a bus took us to a stop near the Chinoike Jigoku Blood Pond Hell and Tatsumaki Jigoku Tornado Hell geyser.
Then we took another bus to the Umi Jigoku Sea Hell. From there we walked the remaining five hells.
When we finished, we snagged a bus back to Beppu itself. The limited express train from Beppu Station had us in Oita City by dinnertime.
Start with the outliers: Chinoike Jigoku Blood Pond Hell and the optional Tatsumaki Jigoku Tornado Hell geyser
We suggest starting with the two outlying hells, Chinoike Jigoku Blood Pond Hell and the Tatsumaki Jigoku Tornado Hell geyser.
Since they’re farther north but only about twenty-five to thirty minutes by bus from Beppu, these are good to do when you’re fresh in the day. If you try to save them for later, it’s too easy to wind up feeling time-crunched and choosing instead to skip these.
Chinoike Jigoku Blood Pond Hell
We visited the Chinoike Jigoku Blood Pond Hell first. In addition to checking out the pool, look for the path that winds up the hillside behind it. From the top there’s a small shrine, not to mention excellent views of the pond plus the countryside and Beppu Bay below.
The color can be more red or more brown depending on the mineral make-up, conditions, and light. After marveling at the bubbling blood pool, we soaked our feet in the included outdoor foot onsen just behind.
Also take some time for the gift shop (where Anthony snagged a pair of bright red, demon-themed, split-toe socks). If you’re peckish, there’s a cafe.
Tatsumaki Jigoku Tornado Hell geyser
The nearby Tatsumaki Jigoku Tornado Hell geyser can shoot plumes of boiling hot water 30 meters into the air… which in earlier days could then splash down onto your tender skin. Nowadays, a roof caps how high the water can go. It’s less dramatic, but at least you can leave unscathed.
We actually skipped the Tornado Hell geyser. It’s probably cool to see. Maybe we’re spoiled from visiting Old Faithful at America’s Yellowstone National Park. Either way, we weren’t fussed.
Plus, we preferred to spend more time at the other hells. When we left the blood pool, we caught a bus back toward Beppu—and the sea on a hillside.
Next: Umi Jigoku Sea Hell (plus bonus hell)
Along with talking about this beautiful blue hell, we’re going to share a not-as-widely publicized bonus hell that’s right there on the same grounds.
Whether by bus or by car, you’ll pass through many steam clouds in this part of Beppu. You can park at the large lot at the Umi Jigoku entrance, or hop off the bus a short walk away.
The cafe outside the entrance is worth a stop: there you can enjoy distinctive steamed puddings and onsen eggs cooked in the volcanic steam or the boiling waters of the hells.
Umi Jigoku Sea Hell was a family favorite. Crossing a bridge, the serene lakeside approach includes curiosities, such as aquatic plants that can thrive here thanks to the ambient hot water. Your path to the Sea Hell passes through the gift shop, and on the other side is the stunning blue pool. Side paths near the pool lead to shrines or other vantage points.
After the pool and a gift shop wander, we headed to the foot onsen, which is also on the grounds. But what we didn’t expect lay at the end of a side path.
Bonus hell: Akaike Jigoku, or Red Hell
At the junction where you can go to the foot onsen, take the other path to Akaike Jigoku, or Red Hell. After the distinct cobalt blue of Umi Jigoku, the deep red is quite striking. It’s amazing to think that two pools, practically neighbors, can be so close yet look so different.
Now, it’s possible that we missed signs or mentions of Akaike in our research, but we were surprised that we didn’t know about it until we were there. Then again, maybe Akaike is kept on the down low, in part to keep up interest in the farther-afield Blood Pond Hell.
Either way, while at Umi Jigoku, take a few more minutes to check out Akaike. You’ll be glad you did.
After Umi Jigoku, you can walk downhill to continue your descent into the remaining four hells.
Gray mud Oniishibozu Jigoku
Next up and just off the grounds of Umi Jigoku Sea Hell, Gray mud Oniishibozu Jigoku is said to resemble a monk’s bald head. If you’re familiar with Yellowstone National Park, the mud pot formations there are similar to the bubbly, flatulent, eerily moving gray mud pools in this picturesque little hillside corner of hell.
The pools here build on the monk theme by surrounding the burbling gray with the feel of a Japanese garden. Serene paths and formations calm the mind and eye, so you can focus on the pools and your wandering between the various pools on the compact site.
Follow signs downhill to visit the remaining 3 Hells of Beppu
Signs point the way to the remaining hells, and it’s a nice downhill stroll through town to get to each one.
Each pool is close to its entry gate. Depending on time, energy level, and interest, you can duck into a hell for a quick look, or each offers other activities and sights to check out if you want to linger.
Color-changing Kamado Jigoku, or Furnace Hell / Cooking Hell
Kamado Jigoku Furnace Hell could be considered the theme park state fair of the 7 Hells of Beppu. With demon statues, hot spring water tastings, and paths with various attractions, Kamado has the most festive and activity-strewn feel of all the hells.
We enjoyed this one for the paths and activities, and it was fun to sample both some water to taste and steam to breathe in (harder than it sounds!).
Depending on when you visit, Kamado Jigoku Furnace Hell can vary in its color, due to variations in the minerals in the water. Also keep an eye out for the ice cream stall as you come around the far side of the pool loop.
Kamado is also known as Cooking Hell: Visitors can steam baskets of veggies and eggs, then enjoy a lovely hell-cooked meal.
Croc breeding habitat Oniyama Jigoku, or Crocodile Hell
A surprise benefit of the hot waters here? If you want to breed cold-blooded crocodiles, a Hell of Beppu can be a croc-friendly reptile habitat.
Pens and pools throughout Oniyama Jigoku Crocodile Hell house crocodiles. You might see them rolling around or splashing about, or just having a nice hot tub soak.
We didn’t spend a lot of time here. However, the inside shop and gallery area has some impressive crocodile remains, factoids, and artifacts—including a full crocodile over five meters long.
Shiraike Jigoku, or White Pond Hell, plus aquarium
We finished our visit to the Hells of Beppu at Shiraike Jigoku White Pond Hell. The waters here lie at the center of a compact Japanese-style garden. Stone bridges and lanterns await around serene plantings, full of eye-catching details.
The hot waters here also go into creating aquatic habitats for a range of small and large sea life. The aquarium is a quick wander, and worth it for the variety of sea creatures.
If you only have time to visit one hell of Beppu, which one should you visit?
We get it. Try though you might, sometimes there’s just not enough time in the day. If your time in Beppu simply just can’t fit in a trip to all the hells, we’d suggest visiting just one:
If you can only visit one hell, visit Umi Jigoku Sea Hell
Umi Jigoku Sea Hell is the sweet spot of Beppu’s hells:
- Easy to access by bus from Beppu Station
- Ample and free parking if you’re driving
- On-site cafe for sampling iconic steamed puddings, eggs, and other foods and drinks
- Distinctive blue color is great for photos and videos
- Extensive gift shop
Plus, Umi Jigoku Sea Hell offers easy, right-there access to 2 bonuses:
You can still visit a red-colored pool by going to the Akaike Jigoku Red Hell, just a little behind Umi Jigoku Sea Hell itself.
Before you leave, treat yourself to a soak in the foot onsen.
While you may only have time for one hell, if time permits, also consider scooching over to the nearby bubbling gray mud Oniishibozu Jigoku. The tooty mud pools are a completely different type of feature, and you could check them out in as little as 15 minutes.
Returning to Beppu Station and beyond
Local buses run regularly from the hells area back to Beppu Station. From there, you can snag a train to Oita, Fukuoka, or wherever your next Japan adventures will take you.
If going to Beppu, we suggest the limited express train. From Beppu Station, you’re minutes from Oita Station and its Amu Plaza shopping and dining center.
The 7 Hells of Beppu are volcanic fun for the whole family
As much as we enjoyed soaking in the onsens of Beppu, we are so glad we included a day to visit the Hells of Beppu. From the hillside views from Chinoike Jigoku Blood Pond Hell to the serene garden feel of Shiraike Jigoku White Pond Hell, we enjoyed the sights, attractions, and activities each had to offer.
At the same time, we wandered each Hell at our own pace. Some Hells we lingered at. Others we checked out for a few minutes, then moved on.
The Hells of Beppu offer an intriguing way to get up close, but not too close, with the wonders of our planet’s volcanic activity. They are distinctive attractions that weave in geology and Japanese culture—not to mention some tasty puddings and eggs.
Visiting the Hells of Beppu was a highlight of our time on Kyushu, and we hope you get to check out all 7 Hells too.
Plan your trip to the Hells of Beppu
Video: Watch our family visit to the Hells of Beppu
Where to stay in Beppu
We stayed at the Nogami Honkan, a Japanese ryokan
A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn. Around the ryokan, you can relax in a lightweight cotton yukata, or traditional robe (kid sizes available too). Expect to sleep on comfy futons on tatami floors. Breakfasts can be Western or Japanese style, and we’d suggest the Japanese.
Just a short walk from Beppu Station, the Nogami Honkan delighted us with lounging spaces, free anytime coffee and tea, and even a manga library. Instead of the public on-site onsen, we booked the separate private bath. That made it easier for Aster to try out her first onsen. It’s also a great option if, like Jodie, you have tattoos.
Use our link below to book your stay at Nogami Honkan:
